Restaurant Review, Le Baccarat – Doué la Fontaine

The Chinese are opening one mammoth, coal-fired power station every month.  Apparently each one of these emits more carbon than the rest of the known universe. And then some. 

Which is why I decided to replace my ancient electric razor with a traditional wet one, thus doing my bit to combat the peril from the east.  All we need to do now is to stop cows farting and we are on a roll. 

So on, one of my rare sorties through SuperU Hypermarket in nearbye Doué la Fontaine, I purchased something called a Gillette Mach or Macho Razor or some suitably masculine sounding thing.  Surprisingly; it appeared to be the only item in the Men’s Hygiene Department which had no picture of David Beckham or Zinidan Zidaine stuck on it, (thankfully), but it did have a futuristic ultimate war machine on the front, or perhaps it was just a razor painted like a futuristic, ultimate war machine.  Anyway, the razor did the job excellently although, the first time, it left my face looking like the back of a self-flagellating Opus Dei monk.

(Incidentally, whilst typing this I missed the k out of Beckham and Microsoft Word told me I had spelt it wrongly. After inserting the “k” it gave me the all clear.  How did it know this?  Is David Beckham now so famous that even a computer software programme knows of his celebrity?  There must be people called Becham, without the “k”. So how did Word know I wasn’t talking about Mr. Becham and was talking about St. David of the Goldenballs himself)?!!!!  Bloody weird if you ask me.

Eventually, of course, one has to buy new blades for a razor but it is at this point that one realises that although SuperU sells the razor, by some sort of convoluted logic, they do not actually sell the replacement blades to go with it. Don’t ask me why.  It is beyond all human reason.  I havn’t bothered to ask in case the answer causes me to lose the will to live.

Now Sheila, on one of her Voyages of Discovery, or ‘shopping trips’, as they are also known, actually found out that the replacement blades were sold in Intermarché, the other large supermarket in Doué la Fontaine.  They do not, of course, seem to sell the razor!! 

But the problem is that I rarely enter through the portals of Intermarché as I find the interior dismal, their foodstuffs lacking in range, not offering the variety of goods that the discerning buyer may expect in the early years of the 21^st Century and the staff/customer ratio seems to be totally out of balance…..Oh, and it hasn’t got a bar either.

I could ask Sheila to buy me a packet but she would forget and bring me a banana.

So I have therefore been reduced to buying packets of disposable razors from our local shop in Le Puy Notre Dame.  These razors are perfectly functional when it comes to shaving the hairs on the front of my face but, surprisingly, are about as much use as a chocolate teapot when it comes to tackling  the softer hairs under my chin.  Thus, over a period of a few weeks, I acquired a noticeable layer of thick felt under the jaw, which serves no noticable purpose whatsoever, except for hiding the odd malignant mosquito, and also looks decidedly odd. 

So, finally, it  became necessary to either call a carpet layer or to go to the Intermarché to buy replacement blades for my Macho Turbo Thingy.

Well, on arriving on the car park you could have knocked me down with a pain au chocolat.  Not only had the whole store been renovated but someone has bunged a brand new bar/restaurant on the front of it.

I am sure it wasn’t there when I passed it last week.

Now, at this point, may I thank all of you who actually thought this posting was about a restaurant  for staying with me!  We have now arrived at the establishment itself. 

It is called the ‘Le Baccarat’ and is cleverly situated so that you do not actually feel that you are in the supermarket itself.  It is brand, spanking new and has a sun terrace in front, together with tables and sunshades.  Service is pleasant and attentive and the quality/food ratio is superb.

We chose the €11,00 four-course Menu, (€16,00 over the weekend).  This consisted of a self-service salad/entrée bar followed by a “plat principal”, followed by cheese and dessert.  The entrée included things like crevettes, spiced sausages, prawns, boudin noir, fresh salads, dressings, etc., etc. The main courses had about six choices including fish dishes, beef goulash, roast beef and braised ham.  I had the ‘Beef Goulash’ which was subtly spiced and very tender.  Sheila had the ‘Roast Beef’ which was done to perfection; rosy/red in the centre and, again very tender. The round dessert table was groaning, under a very large selection, sitting on a bed of ice.  Sheila chose a huge slice of Lemon Meringue which, Harry Potter like, she magically made invisible, (only House-Elves can do this without a wand)!  I, being of much sterner stuff, chose to have neither cheese nor dessert - Well, it gives you a certain feeling of moral superiority.

With a perfectly acceptable half pitcher of Anjou Rouge and Coffee, the total bill was €25,00. I didn’t even bother to negotiate a lower price to acknowledge the fact that I had not had the last two courses from the fixed menu.  I thought it was pretty good value as it was.  

They also do an à la carte which includes grills, (steaks etc.), enormous salads and there is a choice of ten different pizzas.

So, in short, excellent food, incredible prices, pretty good choice and clean, pleasant surroundings. Ideal for a family lunch, without breaking the bank.

You can also do your shopping there.  That is, of course, unless you want to buy a Gillette Mach II Turbo Razor Thingy with the Ultimate War Machine on the front.  You can get the replacement blades though!

Bon courage et à plus,

Brian

Loire Valley Gites

“Le Bouchon Ponot” – Le Puy Notre Dame

I have been a little busy lately with my new position of “travialleur social” – carer- to my wife, Sheila, who, after having spent a lifetime preparing for the big one by breaking various ankles, wrists, suffering severe whiplash and having other mysterious and complicated illnesess which were a source of great delight and edification at assorted hospitals in both England and France, has now decided to slip a disc in her back and so is incapable of any meaningful movement.  That is with the notable exception of her right hand,  which, with the utmost dedication,  she selflessly continues to use in writing page after page of lists, just in case I forget to do anything. Thus I am now trying to finish the renovations and, at the same time, do all the shopping, driving, cleaning, etc, etc.   A woman’s work is never done! 

I really cannot understand what the problem is with women these days.  In the past they would have a baby in their tea-break and then get back to the fish-gutting, corn threshing or whatever, ignoring any pain.  Now,  a little twinge from a disc pressing on the spinal nerve and that’s it - incapacitated.  I blame Mrs. Pankhurst!

One great problem was that, until recently, not only could Sheila not even stand and cook but, in her more depressed moments seemed quite prepared to put on her hair-shirt and live on stale bread and water.  This does not suit me very well as, of course, with all the extra duties plus the additional stress, (I mention stress because one feels that these days one must, otherwise it would seem as if I was the only person in the world not suffering from it),  I am normally in a state of ravenous hunger which sometimes puts me in danger of eating my own arm!!

However, salvation was on the horizon, when the new restaurant, Le Bouchon Ponot, opened in the village.  After a slightly dodgy start when Jean-Yves and his team had to overcome major obstacles like how to switch the new cookers on – and I am not joking!! - , all has now settled down and each time we (or I) go it gets better and better.

The restaurant is situated next to the small supermarket and occupies the former bread depot which, in turn, gave way to the artisan bakery just up the road.  The renovations have been tastefully done and feature lots of the local white, “tuffeau” stone, this, together with the tiled floor, gives an impression of space and cleanliness.  They have also managed to make the place look about three times the size it was before, which is a neat trick.

Lunchtime meals are €11 and like many local restaurants the menu is fixed.  The price is for three courses and, normally, is the sort of simple, well prepared food one expects at lunchtime in rural France.  The Evening menu is four courses at €16,50.  The last time we went was last week  and the entrées ranged from paté to frogs legs, (which I love and  were delicious),  whilst the main course choices were monkfish, duck, beef or venison followed by cheese and a selection of desserts.  I am afraid I neglected to ask about ‘Veggy’ options, a subject not dear to my heart, but I will do so tomorrow.  Everything was superbly cooked although our friend thought the veg was a little uninspiring.  This is often a complaint about France in general and, given that the region  is a major producer of market-garden produce, of the Loire in particular, I am afraid, that is the traditional french way with  vegetables being given only a small accompanying role, almost as a garnish.  The french generally supply the “bulk” by eating copious amounts of bread with their meals and quite often have a dish of “crudités” (raw vegetables) as a starter.  And don’t forget that four courses is often the norm. 

The wine-list has only wine from two local producers, one organic,  but it is quality stuff – the 2005 Red from La Domaine du Vieux Tuffeau is particularly interesting  - and why not drink the local wine when you are eating in a wine producing village, particularly one with its own appellation?

All in all, a very promising start exemplified by the fact that it is getting busier and busier.  The other night, (Thursday), there were just two tables empty, which is not bad for a restaurant in a small village in the middle of January and the talk in the bar on Saturday was that it had been full on Friday night.  I presume that most of the people there could easily have eaten in Doué la Fontaine or Montreuil-Bellay, both five minutes drive away and with a vast choice of eateries.  My rule of thumb in France is that if the locals use it then give it a try and I have rarely been disappointed.  We are now recommending to our gite accommodation clients that we reserve the restaurant for them if they wish to eat there when they arrive.  It really is a wonderful thing for both residents and holidaymakers to be able to walk to a local restaurant of quality, (or indeed a bar),  given the increasing governmental pressure on drink-driving which, as a result, is becoming more and more risky,  plus, of course, it really is not very sensible.  Thus I am sure that “Le Bouchon Ponot” will become a great asset to the village.

Just one postscript.  The former restaurant, La Collegiale, which closed two years ago, has now been purchased and the rumour in the village, is that it will become a Wine and Tapas-Bar,  if this is the case it will be amazing in a small, traditional village like ours. Whatever next – a Lap-dancing Club?!  

Finally, I bumped into Jean-Yves in the bar and asked him about ‘Veggie’ options and he is quite happy to discuss various options when the reservation is made.

à plus

Brian   Gite Accommodation in the Loire Valley

  

Restaurant Review – Supermarket Cuisine

It might seem strange to include supermarkets in a ‘Restaurant Review’ but not to do so would be to neglect one of the great achievements of the French Nation, up there with the discovery of Penicillin and the Suez and Panama Canals, (well, perhaps not the latter because the Americans had to finish that!).

But why is this?  I hear you ask.

It is because by careful and intricate planning French men have persuaded French women that, in the great battle of the sexes, the women have won and  they are now able to drag their men, kicking and screaming, to the supermarket. Or, in fact, not kicking and screaming at all, but rather with an ingratiating subservience.

However, far from being a victory for Womens’ Lib., what the ladies do not seem to notice is that whist they are wheeling their malfunctioning “chariots”, around the aisles filling it with Cassoulet, Roquefort and Jammy Dodgers, their men folk are safely ensconced in the bar, contentedly drinking their wine, pastis or café calva and watching the crumpet walk by.  Unless, that is, there is football or rugby on the bar TV.   It is, of course, always a matter of priorities!

Of course, there has to be a trade off and this is that the men folk are expected to be at the till when their wives or partners arrive with their groaning chariots.  This is somewhat annoying when one is down to the last five minutes of a Six Nations Rugby Match, but that is the way the contract works.  At least watching the bulk of a
rugby match on TV is better than inanely following your wife up and down supermarket aisles for several hours, like some perverse copy of the Muslim tradition which has the women following some way behind the men!

What these bars also do is to supply cheap, good value food at lunchtime, (12 till 2,) and, if you are in a rush or have large families to feed, they really provide another, viable option.  Their popularity is proven by the fact that, come midday, they are inundated by local workers from the surrounding offices and factories.  Another, not inconsequential, result of the supermarkets hosting bar/restaurants is that they have to stay open during the lunchtime hours and this is by far the best time to do your shopping  as all, self respecting, French people are busy eating. 

As all the bar/restros are franchised their method of operation tends to vary at the discretion of the franchisee.  For example the bar/restro at  Leclerc in Saumur is a straightforward self service operation, although the vegetables and chips are supplied ad-hoc from another service area behind the main till. The one in Super-U in Doué la Fontaine is similar but gives you a ticket whilst the main meal is being prepared.  The Super-U at Vihiers, by far my favourite, operates as a straightforward restaurant with waiter service for the main course and cheese/dessert with the entrée normally being from a self service salad/charcuterie bar.

If you ask for coffee, with the exception of Vihiers, all the others give you a token or a ticket. The token means that somewhere in the vicinity there is a self service expresso machine and the ticket means that you go to the bar to obtain your coffee, after you have finished your meal. It is a great surprise to the French if you want to drink a beverage during a meal instead of afterwards. It offends their perceived notion of how things should be done!!

So there you are. You cannot expect haut cuisine and one must say that the quality is occasionally variable.  But millions of French workers cannot be wrong.

And it has to be better than a recently deceased sandwich with a cup of lukewarm, indeterminable liquid from a café in Asda.  Probably costs about the same as well!

Bon Appétit!          To see all our Restuarant Reviews click here 

Restaurant Review-Montreuil-Bellay

Creperie – Grill, L’escalier Saint Pierre - 25 Place du Narché.   Up to the end of last year, if you were around the Place du Narché around 1830 in the evening you could often see  a diminutive Asian woman with a big plastic carrier bag stomping methodically from the car-park in front of the Chateau to her tiny Chinese take away in the square. The carrier bag, one assumes, carried all the ingredients for the evening’s culinary masterpieces. It was a true example of the triumph of hope over reality and it was quite clear that the carrier bag was carrying less and less ingredients, even to the extent that, if you happened to see her leaving,  you could not help but notice that sometimes the bag seemed fuller than when it arrived!  Eventually, she realised that operating a restaurant without customers, is actually quite difficult to do and she sold her enterprise to the restaurant next door, which now occupies a delightful position, having a double frontage with chairs and tables clustered around the small pretty fountain in the square. Food is the sort of good quality, competitively priced simple meals which is so difficult to find in the UK; Crépes, Gallettes, (sweet and savory filled pancakes), Grills and Salads. The fixed price menus are very well priced, the decor is pleasant and authentic and the service friendly, polite and helpful.   To see all our local restaurant reviews click here 

Restaurant Review – Doué la Fontaine

Brasserie de le Ville – 2 Rue Foullon:

One of my minor delights in life used to be sitting outside this Brassiere/Bar in Doué la Fontaine with a friend or two, nursing a glass of Rosé and watching the cars attempting to negotiate the junction just outside, even placing the odd bet on the car most likely to come to grief. This was because four roads joined at that point and no-one seemed to have the slightest idea who had the right of way. Sadly, however, the town council, in a most unfrench like attack of Health and Safetyitus have replaced this junction with a small roundabout and have instituted a totally nonsensical and complex one way system throughout the town. This has no doubt, relieved the stress on motorists using the junction but at the cost of  replacing it with worse stress because no-one has a clue how to navigate the narrow streets. Modifying the junction  is basically a bad idea because it stops people enjoying  a small pleasure in life. What they should have done was publicise “Crash Corner”, in the Office de Tourisime as one of the minor sights of interest in the town and place a few benches around the area.  Anyway, the net result was that the owners upped sticks and left, obviously because they felt there was a yawning gap in there lives.  They are probably even now scouring France for a Brasserie next to “Crash Corner 2″.   However, in their absence, the new owners have continued the concept of Brasserie at Lunchtime and Bar in the Evenings. Serving traditional French lunch time grub at a reasonable price and, as is usual, the Plat de Jour being particularly good value. (Rosbif and Frites €6.80). The speciality à la maison is Moules et Frites at €8.50, with a drink included. Though not as modern and as stylish as some of the newer eateries in Doué it has loads of “savoir faire” and an authentique Brasserie feel.  Shame about Crash Corner  though!!!               To see all our current reviews click here